Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to mount an MR53 to a channel drop ceiling grid? Cisco has an option to use the AIR-CHNL-ADAPTER but I don't see anything for Meraki AP's.
I believe the MR53 comes with mounting hardware for a drop-ceiling grid.
Take a look at page 4 of the MR53 datasheet. The largest metal parts in the black foam twist on to the ceiling grid and are locked with set screws.
Correct the MR's come with a mounting kit. Part of that kit includes little twist clamps (bottom right of picture below) that mount and slide on the grid then the bracket mounts to those clamps.
Both of you are correct if I were mounting to a T-Rail drop ceiling grid.
In my case, I need to mount these AP's to a Channel drop ceiling grid as shown in the center image. The left image is the T-Rail grid and the right one is a Beam grid. For the middle and right Cisco sells the AIR-CHNL-ADAPTER adapter to mount all of their AP's to both of these types of ceiling grids. I cannot use that adapter to mount Meraki AP's so I was wondering if anyone knows of a viable solution for these two other types of celings.
Do you have any of those AIR-CHNL-ADAPTER adapters to test to see if they line up with any of the holes on the MR bracket?
They do not. If you are familiar with the Cisco mounting bracket the two clips on the bracket meet together on the T-Rail whereas with the Meraki clip the two ends are about 2 inches apart. If I were to use the adapter I would need 4 of them and that is not a workable option.
This is the only specialized ceiling mount kit Meraki sells: MA-MNT-CLG-1
While this includes adapters for "recessed" t-rails, it doesn't sound like this will work for your application.
I do suggest if you are screwing them into the ceiling tiles make sure you fix them into a piece of wood on the other side of the tile. I've seen lazy jobs where people haven't fixed them into wood and the AP has fallen off the ceiling!
I was actually thinking of drilling into the channel grid as I don't trust the tiles to hold any AP. If I were to rely on the tile I would use a board long enough to span the tile and rely on the grid work, never the tile.